Saturday, 24 March 2012

CTS Final Essay Draft



Consumerism as a form of unconscious manipulation


Within this essay I am going explore how we, as a consumerist society are subconsciously controlled by the design culture and ideology which lies within it, which tells you how to think, feel and be; distorting and masking our way of thinking about the world.

The panopticon, a tool using layout, visibility (lack of it), and the human methods of self control used within the production of a building. Introduced many years ago, it is apparent within the modern world around us, panoptic elements surround our streets, homes, and institutions. Rows, upon rows of homes, built in a gridded structure,  to face one another. If we were to be on the path, or road between the two rows of facing houses, we immediately act and behave although we are watched, whether we are, or not is another question, but this sense of constant observation makes us act, how we want to be seen.

Michel Foucault, a theorist interested in the mechanism of discipline relates closely to consumerism, the way it controls society and can be manipulated to act, look or feel a certain way. The Panopticon, designed by Jeremy Bentham 1791, was a structural design which relied on surveillance, isolation and visibility.  A circular structure, this was said to be used as a design for institutions, such as prisons, schools and hospitals; a prime example being the Leeds University Brotherton Library. Student sit in /sectioned' area's, which can be overlooked by anyone standing within the library, be that on the same level, or above.  The idea was if a person was to be isolated, to be on constant surveillance, but know not of who could be watching them, would be self controlling. Once internalized that your isolated, permanently visible, you conform to a set of ideas that you think the person watching you wants to behave like. You start to control yourself.  Foucault believes the Panopticon as a metaphor for the way society controls its citizens, an allergy of how we’re controlled in our day-to-day lives. In summary the Panopticon design symbolises our day to day life, a figure of we’re controlled. As Jeremy Bullmore explains in discussion of consumerism, 'Advertising doesn't sell things; all advertising does is change the way people think or feel’. As a method of mental control, we are surrounded by images which do this. Walking through any City Centre we, as a society are inescapable of the posters littering street walls, billboards sprawling oversized images of commodities. Fed these ideas through image, to be ‘subjected’ upon by others opinions; a giant modern panopticon. We are survellienced, by other humans, through what we wear, how much we pay for something and the objects we purchase, their opinion is of great importance to us. Subconsciously, we use commodities to represent ourselves, without even realising we’re doing so. Foucault calls this the ‘Docile body’ (Olssen, 1999). We buy a new item, feel great satisfaction, know it will make you look and feel a certain way, a way in which you want others to see you, but don’t always identify yourself with these thoughts. We simply ‘do’; 'He is seen, but he does not see; he is the object'(Olssen, 1999). We conform, as we do to the panopticon, to an expected behaviour by the system (by society and consumerism), we are no longer in control, a sense of exploitation, Foucault explains that 'power only exists because a person lets themselves be exploited by such power' (Olssen, 1999) Consumerism does so, along with the design, ideology and images, which lie within it. Consumerism has created a giant panopticon, we conform, we are indirectly controlled by image. Design becomes political. 

Consumerism, is a social order, which makes us feel the need and be encouraged to purchase goods. Primarily through image, Graphic Designers are employed to create such visuals, for instance, to display a photograph of a slim, beautiful white woman in underwear, alongside a tagline 'Hello boys.' promoting 'Wonderbra'. The idea, through the purchase of this good, we can have everything this woman connotes, as 'the ideal woman', the message communicated is lust, with the Wonderbra product she can seduce any man. This, too is a pantopic element - this design could be sprawled across a huge billboard.
'Advertising design, in persuading people to buy things they don't need, with money they don't have, in order to impress others who don't care' - (Papenek, 1971)
The above quote Is a brilliant summary of how we are subconsciously controlled, how the idea of a ‘docile body’, is apparent within a consumerist and capitalist society, as Berger explains, it 'Creates a false desire to gain a symbolic association and therefore perpetuates false needs.' (Berger, Ways of seeing, 1972) Retail outlets have began to use this method in design, as a unconscious method of control, specifically looking at retail graphics, and store layout in accordance to the panopticon, consumerism and 'unconscious minds', Rene Descartes has a similar view, stating we link ourselves to commodities: ' I think therefore I am', discourse as method, is a question of existence, possibly stating that in a modern society we can only exist through our commodities, as we give an image which others perceive us on, as advertisers make products 'mean' something, which is translated through ourselves. Within 'Decoding Advertisements', (Williamson, J, 1978), suggests that advertisements provide a structure, transforming the language of objects to that of people, thinking along the lines of Rene Descartes. "Advertising sets up connections between certain types of consumers and certain products." Using signifiers and what is signified to create the connection. The quote ' I think therefore I am', was manipulated for use with retail graphics, Selfridges retail store produced large designs holding the words 'I shop therefore I am', designed by Barbara Kruger.

'We are surrounded by images of an alternative way of life...' (Berger, Ways of seeing, 1972), this was apparent within 1920's we as a society saw the rise of mass consumer persuasion; glamorized advertisements and the practice of product placement within movies; The starting point of consumerist thinking and behaviour.

"A change has come over our democracy, it is called consumptions. The American citizen first importance to its country is no longer citizen, but consumerism." (An American Journalist, 1972, The Century of the self.)

Within ‘The Century of the self’, we are told that Edward Bernays was a strong instigator within this new rising movement of thinking; he brought forward psychological theory of how corporances were going to appeal to the masses. 
“Bernays was one of the first to use Freud’s ideas about human beings, and use them to manipulate the masses.” (Curtis, A.) He was employed to promote war aims to the press, he was skilful at doing so, so promoted such ideas internationally. Bernays began to wonder, if it was possible to use the same methods of persuasion (propaganda) for peace, so much so, he began studying 'The mind of the crowd'. He began searching for a way to manage and control people; a way to alter the way a crowd thought and felt. This began a new political idea on how to control the masses, American corporations began to make people want things they didn't need; unconscious desires, after finding that information drives behaviour. 
            Bernays had taken much influence from his uncle; Freud, who had experimented with the minds of the popular classes. One case study was altering the way society thought about women smoking, at the time it was thought as a taboo. Cigarettes were seen to represent the penis, to be of power, If a woman were to smoke, she would metaphorically have power. During a parade, several women were given a signal to begin smoking a cigarette they had hidden beneath their clothing. Freud had already prepared an idea, that the women were to look although they were suffragettes, making a stand for freedom, a message for more independence, to represent the iconic figure of the statue of liberty, holding a torch. Through using this 'image', Freud had made it more socially acceptable for women to smoke. Freud knew that on looking press would pick up on this 'idea', and how irrelevant objects, such as a cigarette, can be represented how you are seen by others.
Within Modern society we are surrounded by Advertisements, and see similar techniques as to that used by Freud. Within 'Decoding Advertisements', (Williamson, 2002) explains that advertising is an "inevitable part of everyone’s lives…" stating that you don't even have to be 'directly involved in the media, it's all around us". Through the use of semiotics and ideology we are pushed to believe to want to look and feel a certain way, and without commodities, we can’t fit to this acceptable criterion. This system of ideas masks and distorts our way of thinking, we are no longer an image of our skills, but by our materials and commodities. “People are identified by what the consume, rather than what they produce.”(Williamson, 2002)



Again, the idea of commodities being in control of our existence, the fact that this statement, giving its meaning, has been placed in a retail environment. It pushes the idea forward even more. We see the retail graphics, unconsciously understand it, what its connoting, but do not react to it. We have become a 'docile body', we conform to the behaviour of everyone else in the store at that time. To look, to purchase, to leave. This is what we 'feel' we have to do, through elements of panopticism, and consumerism, we are told this is what we are to do, that purchasing these items will make us 'feel' a certain way. Selfridges itself offers, as a brand, a sense of luxury, of being up to date within the fashion trends. This can be said across many stores, whether it be retail or not, each have their own 'idea' of what they can offer to us, what lifestyle we can apparently have by purchasing their products.
'In using 'lifestyle', retailers don't just want to sell goods, they want consumers to aspire to a brand as a promise of a way of living.’ (Manuelli ,2006:132)

The store 'Habitat' was one of the first to understand this idea, to push the idea of 'lifestyle experience' forward through design. This was arguably started in 1964 in Habitats London store, customers were able to pick and choose furniture 'to create an environment that was reflective of the 1960s joyous mode of living'. (Manuelli ,2006:132)

"Habitat was the first shop to identify its products and its image as part of a wider ethos. Its groundbreaking ideas was to offer a stylish affordable way of living to the masses….a reflection of continental ways of living.' (Manuelli ,2006:132)

The store 'Ikea' have taken the idea of offering a 'lifestyle' a step forward. Ikea holds a 'lifestyle' within its products, the logo and branding carries the colours of the swedish flag, this then reflects the design qualities often associated with sweden, 'including an emphasis on natural materials and the use of bright colours.' The store layout has been of great reason for the success in the mass market, its labyrinth like pathways within the warehouse has been "Engineered so that customers will view all the products from the full-scale room sets' 'The inspired retails space', ( Dean, C, 2003:122), this in itself urges customers to physically 'test' the items before purchase, and customers do so. Foucalts theory of control is apparent within Ikea, and its store layout mechanism. We as customers are urged to follow the endless corridors sweeping through the store, although there are 'shortcuts' cutting through each room, its very rare we actually take them. Retail graphics throughout the store give us direction, through the use of arrows and information boards, there is little advertisement of the shortcuts. The idea of the 'unconscious mind', seeing but not reacting, is apparent. This, of course, is done intentionally, so we as customers traipse through the entire store, potentially seeing other items we feel we may want or need, this is certainly a consumerist mechanism, they don't want us to miss an opportunity to buy. 



We have become a dominant consumerist society, one of which makes little decision for itself, instead is told, through design, unconscious manipulation and consumerism how to look, feel and act, according to Foucault previously mentioned within this essay. We live in a modern panopticon, littered by ideas, beliefs and opinions of how to exist through commodities, we ourselves have become an object, we are seen, but do not see, as Foucault puts it. We are no longer represented by our skills, but instead, by what we consume, Williamson, J,“People are identified by what the consume, rather than what they produce.”. We are fed an image of how we are meant to be, act or look by the visual images and objects around us. Its the idea of spectacle. Instead or seeing a relationship between people, we a relationship between commodities, people and 'things'. Through retail graphics we are directed, whether that be physically, or mentally, to purchase. To feel a false need to want something so desperately, that we will feel inadequate if we don't do so. We each conform to these 'rules', we have become docile bodies, we do not challenge such conformities, we simply follow them.


Word Count: 2160


Bibliography:

Adorno, T, (1991) 'The culture industry', Routledge,  
Foucault, M, (2005) 'Materialism and education', Olson, M.
Dant, T, (1999) 'Material Culture in the social world', Open University Press
Kidd, W, (2002) 'Culture and Identity', Warren Kid
Dean, C, (2003), The inspired retail space attract customers, build branding, increase volume', Rockport Publishers
Manuelli, S, (2006) 'Design for shopping New retail interiors', Laurence King Publishing, 
Williamson, J, (2002) 'Decoding Advertisements', Marion Boyars
Berger, J, Dibber, M, 'Ways of seeing', British broadcasting corporation and Penguin Books 
The Century of the self - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IyPzGUsYyKM
Thomas, A, Markus, Cameron, D, (2002) 'The words between the spaces', Routledge
Foucault, M. (1977) Discipline and punish, London: Penguin
Benjamin, W. (1964) The work of the art in the age of mechanical reproduction, p1-5


Image:

http://redkingsdream.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/ikeamap.jpg
http://www.tate.org.uk/magazine/issue3/images/consume_ishoptherefore_large.jpg

Sunday, 11 March 2012

Task 2 - Mechanical Reproduction


www.owengildersleeve.com

For this task I will be looking at the portfolio of Owen Guildersleeve, a London based designer, illustrator and set maker working primarily in paper craft, his skills lying in hand crafted techniques and styles. There has been much recent recognition for his intricate, detailed work becoming this years ADC Young Guns 9 Winner, resulting in a prestigious client list, consisting of Rolex, Cadbury and The New York Times. Working in the media he does, a lot of his work is mass produced, among editorial articles, moving image and print; his prints are available for purchase. Relating back to Benjamin's theory of mass production, technological advancing has meant some hand crafted work can be digitalised to exist in a new technological media. This gives his work a far wider audience through his prints, Benjamin states through "Technical reproduction can put the copy of the original into situations which would be out of reach for the original itself" Walter Benjamin (1936). Owens work is extremely time consuming, with new technological advances, work which would take days can be produced in a less time constraining method of printing. This means his work can be pushed further than the limited environment and media and hand crafted piece could exist, with its digital form it can be printed onto a range media, for instance, clothing, canvas and textiles. It also makes it far more cost effective for Owen and his works. 


With this technological reproduction, the Marxist theory of superstructure and structure was effected.  The aura of the works are lost / unsee, its detached from its history,  "Even the most perfect reproduction of a work of art is lacking in one element: its presence in time and space, its unique existence at the place where it happens to be ." Walter Benjamin (1936), within this essay Benjamin states the effect of mechanical reproduction as a compromise to the art work produced, the emotion, history, authenticity and uniqueness which can be behind a piece of original art work is lost in its immediate duplication "Detaches the reproduced object from the domain of tradition", this art work can be recontexualised as something new with reproduction. To counteract this, he explains how the printing process could be considered an art form of itself "it also had captured a place of its own among the artistic processes" Reproduction can too be changed and altered and become an art work in its own right, lines are blurred. Owen Guildersleeve has managed to do both, to produce prints of his work, but to retain its aura by selling the original crafted works, they are available to purchase at a price reflecting the intricacy and skill taken to produce such a piece. 








Saturday, 10 March 2012

Task 5 - The Gaze

‘according to usage and conventions which are at last being questioned but have by no means been overcome - men act and women appear. Men look at women. Women watch themselves being looked at’ (Berger 1972, 45, 47)







Hans Memling 'Vanity' (1485)

Bergers quote is clearly justified in Hans Memling 'Vanity' (1485). He insinuates that Men and Women carry different roles within society, the higher role carried out by men. A mans purpose to look and act upon what he sees, and are represented as an active body, a woman, to be looked at, to be consumed and to almost hold a fetish that she can be looked at, for it to be justified to do so. Within Hans Memling 'Vanity' the device of the mirror is present within the painting; the woman appears to enjoy looking at herself, in a sense its how she wants to be seen by others. Her eye contact is diverted away from the viewer, allowing a viewer to objectively view her, our gaze isn't challenged, its although she has acknowledged and accepts you to look at her; her stature and pose is of confidence and is open for us to gaze.

Visual culture has always been dominated by men, During this time period there were far more Male artists to Female, too, the subjects of painting were of nude women rather than men, a male ideal of a perfect woman, these images a foundation of pornography; more and more nude painting emerge within this time period, holding a Pseudo / pornographic function. Its simply justified as a study of beauty within the female form, which excuses and justifies a mans allowance to view such imagery within their own homes, on a whole, made for rich men to fantasise. An example of a man looking, and a woman become objectified through a viewers gaze. 


Eva Hertigova, 1994 'Hello boys'




The gaze is closely linked the idea of power; men having control over women. This idea is apparent within society today, consumerism aiding this,  plastering walls and billboards with photographs of semi naked women, so much so, such nudity is socially acceptable and has been normalised within our consumerist society; women are objectified. Eva Hertigova, 1994 'Hello boys'  is just one prime example, a women in nothing but her underwear, seems to be enticing Male gazers, her eye contact is diverted away from a viewer, this is common is both images, the gaze is not being returned thus not challenging, it gives us permission to look at her, without ever being seen. She seems to be looking at herself, again the idea of showing us how she wants to be seen by others; too, there is a playful, flirtatious interaction with the viewer. There is a second message which could be communicated here, the image being set on a billboard creates the illusion of a huge female, towering over and dominating and having control over people. A campaign that wants women to feel although you could be like this, with a the product of a 'Wonderbra'. The idea of women being objectified is still apparent, within both images, and society today.











Task 4 - Hyperreality

Write a short analysis (300 words approx) of an aspect of our culture that is in some way Hyperreal. Hyperreality is an awkward and slippery concept. 




Hyperreality, when reality is replaced by simulacrum. In this case Reality Television represented as real life, appears to offer us the position as the all-seeing eye, just one form of hyperreality. A representation which simply wouldn't exist without the cameras being there. Eastenders is a fine example of this false representation; a set, manufactured to look and represent a part of london, to look, feel and sound like just that. A selection of actors, given a fabricated script and image, to look at, and be perceived as real people we can relate to as viewers. Its a constructed image for an audience to engage with, to become part of the soap being shown allows us a voyeuristic passive consumption of a type of reality. The boundaries between reality and fantasy become blurred, we know its in fact set in a studio, with actors, scripts, costume and makeup but become unconciouss in really reconginzing this. We still react although it were real, we still talk to one another about the soap although the place and people exist. The media too respond in this way, talking about the actors first hand using reference to name, past events and characteristics but then tell us of future plots; reminding us that this is in fact a soap, not a real event. The danger of hyperreality is we begin to see constructed characters as role models, this fabricated image becomes our reality. Something we want to be and act like, even if we consider how extreme the Eastenders actors are, as characters. In recent events we have seen many murders, assaults and arson attacks all carried out by the characters - more often than in reality. Within the half an hour the programme is shown, we relate to it although real, but are often reminded that it is, in fact just a soap; the end credits, the BBC logo clearing the boundaries between reality, and fantasy.





Hyper Reality Seminar

Hyper Reality


Hand out - 'Society of the spectacle by Guy Debord 1967'


Images shown on cave wall are prisoners 'reality'. 
Modern society - Born into a consumerist society of advertising.


e.g Santa Claus. Santa represented to look typically American, wearing red to tie into Cola branding. This image has become difinitive. History is disguised by a copy, of a version of Santa Claus - a corporative design. Rise of this in consumer culture.


Orgins has gone. All be known is simulacra. Simulations. - Baudrillard. 


Society of the spectacle


Images start to be the link between people. We live through signs, symbols and images. 


Unreal word - so invested in, they are unreal. Spend less time in reality.


The system of objects (1968) exploitation of labour.
Marx : Commodity = use value, exchange value
Baudrillard : Commodity = use value, exchange and sign value (How something is consumed)


e.g Rolex. 
Would not be worth its actual value as it can be cheaply made. We don't think about reality itself, you think about the sign value.


Leeds German Market- Simulacra of Germany - 'Tackier'
Fake German market more popular than original. In Birmingham its 3x the size.


Its almost becoming a UK tradition - We don't recognise it as a marketing ploy for Frankfurt.


Ribina is a simulacra of blackcurrent. It has become what we think as 'real' taste of blackcurrent, when in fact it tastes nothing like it.


Case study - Spinal Tap